What is Encaustic Art? A Beginner's Guide to Wax Painting

Encaustic art looks like nothing else. The surface seems to glow from within—luminous, layered, almost alive. If you've seen it in a gallery and wondered how it's made, the answer involves something unexpected: hot wax.

What Is Encaustic, Exactly?

Encaustic is a painting technique that uses beeswax mixed with damar resin and pigment. The wax is heated until liquid, applied to a surface, and then fused with a heat source.

The name comes from the Greek word "enkaustikos," meaning "to burn in"—a reference to the fusing process that bonds layers together.

A Very Old Art Form

This isn't some trendy new medium. Encaustic painting dates back over 2,000 years. Ancient Greek artists used it for ship decoration and later for portraiture. The famous Fayum mummy portraits from Roman Egypt (created around 100-300 CE) were made with encaustic—and they still look vivid today.

The medium fell out of fashion for centuries but has experienced a revival since the mid-20th century, when artists like Jasper Johns brought it back into contemporary art practice.

Why the Wax?

Beeswax has unique properties that make it compelling for artists:

Luminosity. Wax is translucent. Light penetrates the surface and reflects back, creating a depth that oil or acrylic can't match.

Texture. You can build up thick, sculptural surfaces. Embed objects. Create ridges and patterns. The physicality of encaustic sets it apart from flat painting.

Layering. Each layer remains distinct yet fused to those around it. You can see through upper layers to the colors beneath.

Permanence. When properly made and cared for, encaustic paintings are remarkably durable. Those 2,000-year-old Fayum portraits prove the point.

Immediacy. Unlike oil paint that takes days to dry, encaustic solidifies within seconds. You can work fast and see results immediately.

How Encaustic Works

The basic process involves four steps:

1. Preparing the Medium

Encaustic medium is a mixture of beeswax and damar resin (a tree sap). The resin hardens the wax and raises its melting point, making the final painting more durable.

Some artists make their own medium; beginners usually buy it pre-made. For colored encaustic, pigment is added to create encaustic paint.

2. Heating the Wax

Encaustic must be liquid to apply. Artists use heating tools like:

Palette warmers - Heated metal surfaces that keep multiple colors melted
Heat guns - For fusing layers
Propane torches - For larger surfaces (yes, really)
Electric encaustic irons - For detailed work

The wax needs to reach about 200°F (93°C) to become workable. Not boiling—just hot enough to flow.

3. Applying to a Surface

Molten wax is brushed, poured, or dripped onto a rigid support (usually wood panel; canvas is too flexible). The wax solidifies within seconds of application.

Each stroke is its own layer. Unlike conventional painting where you blend on the surface, encaustic builds up stroke by stroke, layer by layer.

4. Fusing

This is the critical step that makes encaustic what it is.

Each new layer must be fused to the layer beneath it. Fusing means reheating the surface until the layers melt together. Without fusing, layers can separate and the painting falls apart.

Artists use heat guns, torches, or even the back of a hot tool to fuse. The process takes seconds—heat the surface until it becomes glossy, then stop. Too much heat can turn your painting into a puddle.

What Encaustic Looks Like

Encaustic paintings are distinctive:

Surface quality. The finish can range from smooth and polished to heavily textured. Some encaustic looks almost like glass; other works are deeply sculptural.

Depth. Because wax is translucent, you can see multiple layers at once. Colors glow rather than just sitting on the surface.

Texture. Artists can embed objects, scratch lines, build up ridges, or create perfectly smooth fields. The physical dimension is part of the work.

Edge quality. Encaustic panels often have thick, wax-covered edges that become part of the piece.

Common Techniques

Layering. Building up semi-transparent layers of color, each affecting how the ones beneath appear.

Incising/Sgraffito. Scratching through layers to reveal colors beneath.

Collage. Embedding paper, fabric, photographs, or found objects into the wax.

Image transfer. Moving photographs or printed images onto the encaustic surface.

Shellac burning. Using shellac ink for delicate linework.

Texture building. Creating dimensional surfaces through repeated applications.

What to Expect in an Encaustic Class

Encaustic requires specialized equipment that most people don't have at home. That makes taking a class the best way to try it.

Typical Class Format

Most intro encaustic workshops run 3-6 hours—longer than typical painting classes. The medium requires setup time and multiple fusing steps.

First hour: Introduction to materials, safety considerations, and basic technique demonstration.

Middle hours: Hands-on practice. You'll apply wax, fuse layers, try different techniques.

Final hour: Finishing pieces, cleanup, discussion of what you made.

What You'll Learn

A beginner encaustic class typically covers:

Safe handling of hot wax
Basic application techniques
Fusing methods
Building layers
Creating texture
Common mistakes and how to fix them

You'll likely complete at least one small piece to take home.

Safety Considerations

Encaustic involves hot materials and some classes use torches. Safety is taken seriously:

Ventilation. Studios need proper ventilation to handle fumes from heated wax.

Temperature awareness. You're working with materials hot enough to cause burns.

No open flames near fumes. Professional studios manage this; it's one reason to learn in a proper setting.

Protective gear. Some artists wear heat-resistant gloves; most don't for basic work.

The medium is safer than it sounds. Beeswax is non-toxic, and the temperature is hot but not extreme. Millions of candle makers work with similar materials. Still, you're working with heat, and respect is warranted.

What to Wear

Wear old clothes. Wax spatters happen. It can sometimes be scraped off fabric, but not always.

Closed-toe shoes are typically required because of the hot materials.

Cost

Encaustic workshops tend to cost more than regular painting classes because of the specialized equipment and materials. Expect $100-200 for a half-day workshop. Multi-session courses run higher.

Most workshops include all materials—and that's good, because encaustic supplies are an investment.

Setting Up at Home

If you take a class and want to continue, here's what you'll need:

Essential Equipment

Heated palette or griddle - To keep wax melted. You can use a pancake griddle on low; purpose-built palettes run $50-200.

Brushes - Natural bristle only. Synthetic bristles melt. Many encaustic artists use hake brushes (flat, soft Asian brushes) or cheap chip brushes they consider disposable.

Heat source for fusing - Heat gun (the same kind used for paint stripping) is the most common. A good one costs $30-50.

Rigid surface - Wood panels (birch plywood is popular). Canvas doesn't work—it's too flexible and the wax cracks.

Encaustic medium and paints - Medium (clear) costs around $20-40 per pound. Colored encaustic paint runs $8-20 per block depending on pigment.

Optional but Useful

Thermometer for monitoring wax temperature
Scraping tools for texture effects
Various brushes for different effects
Collage materials (paper, fabric)

Startup Costs

A basic home setup runs $200-400. Not cheap, but less than many hobbies. Many artists start with minimal equipment and add as they go.

Is Encaustic Right for You?

The medium attracts certain personalities:

Good fit if you:

Enjoy experimental, exploratory work
Like textured, physical surfaces
Don't mind working with heat
Want to embed photos, papers, or objects
Are drawn to layered, luminous effects
Don't need portability (encaustic panels are rigid)

Maybe not ideal if you:

Want to work quickly on the go
Prefer smooth, flat surfaces
Are uncomfortable around heat sources
Need extremely detailed, precise work
Want to paint outdoors (equipment is not portable)

The only way to really know is to try it. A single workshop gives you enough experience to decide if you want to continue.

Caring for Encaustic Art

If you make (or buy) encaustic work, some care considerations:

Temperature sensitivity. Encaustic paintings should be kept between 40-100°F (4-38°C). Too cold and they can crack; too hot and they can melt or bloom.

Don't hang in direct sunlight. Heat plus sunlight can damage the surface.

Surface blooming. Sometimes a whitish haze appears on encaustic surfaces, especially in cold conditions. This is called "bloom" and can be polished away with a soft cloth.

Handling. Don't touch the surface—fingerprints can mark the wax. If it happens, gentle buffing usually removes them.

Shipping and transport. Protect from temperature extremes. Don't leave paintings in a hot car.

Finding Encaustic Classes

Encaustic is less common than traditional painting classes, but growing in popularity. Look for:

Local art centers and studios
Art museum workshops
Artist studio open classes
Encaustic-specific studios (in larger cities)

Workshops are offered year-round, though you might need to check a few places to find one. The specialized equipment means not every studio offers encaustic.

Some well-known encaustic artists offer workshops at their studios or travel to teach. These can be worth seeking out if you want intensive instruction.

The Appeal of Working with Wax

Encaustic attracts artists for reasons beyond the visual results:

The process is meditative. The rhythm of heating, applying, fusing creates a focused, almost ritualistic practice.

It's forgiving. Made a mistake? Reheat and rework. The wax is infinitely malleable until you decide it's finished.

It's unpredictable. The way wax flows and fuses creates happy accidents. Control freaks may struggle; experimenters thrive.

The results are immediate. Unlike oil paint that takes days to dry, encaustic solidifies in seconds. You see your decisions immediately.

It's tactile. There's something satisfying about the physical nature of building up wax on a surface. It's as much sculpture as painting.

If you've been curious about encaustic, a single workshop will tell you whether the medium speaks to you. And if those luminous, layered surfaces have been calling to you from gallery walls, it might be time to answer.

FAQ

Is encaustic toxic?

Beeswax itself is non-toxic. However, heating any wax produces fumes, and proper ventilation is important. Pigments in some encaustic paints may contain toxic materials (like cadmium)—same as oil paints. Most studios and classes take ventilation seriously.

Can I use encaustic with other media?

Yes. Encaustic is often combined with oil paint, oil sticks, and collage materials. It doesn't mix with water-based media like acrylics or watercolors.

How long does encaustic take to dry?

It doesn't dry—it solidifies. Wax goes from liquid to solid in seconds. However, the surface remains workable. You can reheat and rework encaustic indefinitely.

Can I paint on canvas?

Not really. Canvas flexes, and the rigid wax layer will crack with movement. Encaustic needs a rigid support like wood panel. Some artists use canvas mounted to board, but unmounted canvas doesn't work.

What does encaustic smell like?

Like warm beeswax and honey. Most people find it pleasant. The damar resin adds a subtle, woody scent. If the smell bothers you, the ventilated studio environment keeps it from being overwhelming.

How long will an encaustic painting last?

Properly made and cared for, indefinitely. Those 2,000-year-old Fayum portraits are proof. Modern encaustic, made with quality materials, should outlast you.